TWO ONE TWO, WORLI

I excitedly go to make a booking at this sophisticated establishment and am told to please call the other number for reservations. Can I please be connected? No, I am firmly told, call the other number. Call once, twice, thrice. The bookings line rings on and on into lonely oblivion. On a Saturday night at 10pm, clearly no-one is home at this restaurant.

More out of stubborness than anything, I persist. After 15 minutes of fruitless effort, I ring back the initial number in vain, which at least showed some sign of life. Again I am told to call the bookings number. Upon explaining that the other line is going unanswered, I am put on hold for what seems like an eternity before I realise nobody is coming back on the line to rescue me.

I call the bookings number one last time. A woman answers, with such sadness in her voice I assume I have called a home number by accident. No, it is the bookings lady. I angrily explain my predicament to her and ask what the delay was. She yells back just as vehemently that there is a problem with the booking line. I make a booking and arrive at Two One Two to find my name still not on the list.

The restaurant looks very different to how it normally does. To one side, a giant screen has been erected, broadcasting the cricket. Sullen twenty-somethings are staring at the game, sipping their drinks mechanically. This is not the crowd I envisaged. Each table is dirty and needing to be cleaned.

The manager, a terribly preoccupied chap, presents our menus with affected, sarcastic delicacy and stalks off without so much as a welcome. He is tense, unreasonably so for a restaurant which is barely half-full.

Upon persual of the menu I discover this is a special seasonal menu to celebrate Food Week, where for a fixed price of 1350 INR per head plus taxes, one can choose an entree, main and dessert from a fixed menu. This explains the younger crowd. I ask for an à la carte menu. The manager looks at me incredously, then grudgingly grants this apparent privilege. Unfazed, I swiftly order the mezze platter and antipasti platter to start.

I ask the manager to recommend a full-bodied red. He appears confused, then recovers to confidently recommend an Italian tipple. It arrives, freezing cold. I question the staff as to the reason for this and am told indignantly that it has been stored to the correct temperature in the wine cellar. I have my doubts. Upon pouring the sample, a thin trickle of blood red liquid splashes into the glass. This is not a heavy wine, by any standards.

Again, call the manager. He looks personally offended, tries his best to convince us that this is a great wine, but looks blank when I quietly mention the fact that we had requested a full-bodied variant.  His demeanour turns sulky; what can he do if he brings another wine, opens it and we reject it? Clearly it is our fault for being so picky.

I reluctantly accept the similar-bodied South African variant offered to me as consolation.

I spy the mezze and antipasti platters approaching our table. The waiter starts to handball one dish to his colleague, then at the last minute changes his mind as it leaves his grasp. Both Laurel and Hardy dive for it while I look on, aghast. By some stroke of luck, the platter manages to not end up on the floor.

The mezze platter consists of hummous, baba ganoush, labneh, grilled pita, spanakopita, falafel and pickles. All elements on the dish are beautifully presented. I am somewhat mollified.

The hummous has just the right consistency of olive oil to lubricate the tastebuds, as does the baba ganoush. Both have strong, authentic flavours of chickpea and aubergine, with the appropriate amount of sour doled out by the lemon.

The labneh is rightly thick and sour, while the spanakopita serving is miniscule. I was expecting a proper slice of spinach and feta and was disappointed with the two tiny triangular offerings.

The falafel is unpretentious and welcoming, flattened into kebab-style portions and placed neatly within pita bread.

The antipasti platter contains a satisfying assortment of Spanish and Italian cured meats: jamón serrano, proscuitto, pancetta, champagne and roasted ham, lounging on a bed of salad leaves and two pillows of crusty bread. The fetta has a slightly creamy and authentic tang to it, while the olives are small, cheery explosions of saltiness.

These vital backup players, I am pleased to note, are the real deal.

While we are eating, a waiter takes my order for the main course: lamb chops, served medium. After 10 minutes, the manager approaches and regretfully informs us that we will have to order our main course as the kitchen is closing. I reply that I have already given the order. The signature blank look returns and he hurries off, only to return three times within 15 minutes to clarify the order.

The chops arrive quickly after that, almost too quickly. Steak knives are provided without prompting, which is a plus. Slicing into the flesh, the ruddiness of the meat is revealed:  this is a dish which has been cooked to rare, not medium as requested. The quality of the meat however is superior and appears to be of New Zealand origin.

The onion marmalade and basilico jus serve as a perfect lubricant without the need for ordering additional sauce. These are the best chops I've tasted in Mumbai in terms of flavour and meat quality.

It would have been nice however, to have one extra piece of meat to justify the menu price of 2300 INR.

After dinner, I head to the small humidor to check out the cigars. To my disappointment, the range is limited to a single brand. I was anticipating puffing a Cohiba or a Romeo y Julieta, but no such luck. The cigar on hand however is of excellent quality and has been properly stored, to my relief.

The outdoor area is handy for smokers and appropriately furnished, however the ambience was affected by the model of what must be a fine ship, bubble-wrapped and displayed on a ledge. To one side, a glass window reveals the kitchen, complete with wood-fire pizza oven. This is a great way to engage diners and provide an insight into how their dishes are prepared.

The standard of the food at Two One Two is undoubtedly exceptional, however it is a shame that the service did not mirror this. As the girl in a party of two, I was largely ignored and my requests met with faint, disdainful surprise by the manager.

The waiters spoke politely yet were dejected in their work, not bothering to meet my eye or even stopping their current task to attend to me towards the end.

It is no secret that attentive, well-informed service should be ingrained into top level management, who set an example for the rest of their staff.

With largely flawless dishes, I fervently hope that this establishment can lift its standard of service to mirror the cuisine and make it a happy place for staff and hence diners.

Ambience 4, Food 10.

Two One Two is located at Hornby Vellard Estate, opposite Nehru Centre, Worli.

Photo credits: burp.in, thedrinksbusiness.com

VILLA 69, JUHU

An immense red heart mounted on the front of the illuminated white building demands my attention, with its titillating placement of the numbers of 6 and 9. The name: a tribute to the uh, pleasures of love, has been sung in the most elite social circles since its inauguration.

Striding into the bar, I am dazzled by everything - the impossibly white furniture, the dark angels of cupid dancing the walls, the decadent chandeliers - it looks like the set for a rap video.

Honey Singh, take note.

Stepping outside, I am greeted by a buzz of sights and sounds, the most attractive being the LED electric blue lights which irradiate the sporadically placed ivory chairs and tables.

The soundtrack: seductive notes of lounge music which gently waft through the summer air, permeating my ears. Its as if a fuse has shortcircuited and imploded in my brain and left me disoriented; I am in Ibiza, on a beach, yet somehow in the middle of Juhu.

The immense outdoor area is strewn with a mix of lounge chairs, coffee tables, bar tables and high chairs. People are sitting relaxed in front of a sweeping projector, watching the cricket.

To one side is an authentic stone wood-fire pizza oven with an open kitchen. I am informed that one pizza takes exactly six minutes to cook at a temperature of 318 degrees.

Note to self: Order the pizza. And do not place hand in oven.

Back indoors, I survey the wine list, a commendable mix of offerings from Italy to France to South Africa. I am recommended the strawberry basil martini, comprising just three ingredients: two of its namesake, the third, vodka.

The result is a pleasingly smooth rendition of what is usually considered to be a 'girly' drink - the subtle pepperiness of the basil offsets any overly saccharine tones usually had by a beverage of fruity origin, creating a balance of flavours.

The mellow undertones of the alcohol make it hard to believe the vodka used is a relatively common brand.

The second drink I try is a 'Chatka Mary', something I percieve to be a Bloody Mary with a twist. It wields a fiery blow on first sip thanks to a glass lined with salt and chilli powder.

The thick sweetness of guava juice is cut with sour piqant tones of tobasco and freshly cracked pepper, which is again offset by the tangy sweetness of the malt vinegar in the Worcestershire sauce. A whole green chilli floats lazily in the middle as a garnish.

I'm almost on fire, but in an exciting way.

Clearly in a bid to get me drunk, I am served the vodka-flambed prawns as a starter. I am greeted by an earthen pot housing large prawns bathing decadently in a garlic butter sauce.

Showered in fresh parsley and chilli flakes to counter the sweetness of the orange reduction, juice explodes in my mouth as my teeth pierce the flesh, which holds the light residue of the vodka it was prepared in.

Definitely off to a great start.

The mustard paprika fish arrives resting on a bed of crunchy, snail-shaped puff pastry which cracks resonately when hit with a metal spoon, yet is tough on the teeth when chewed. Squiggles of pimento coulis sauce decorate the plate as the fish waits expectantly to be sampled.

The browned exterior contrasts sharply with a slightly squishy interior, where the mustard flavour which has not carried through.

Perhaps a tangier version of the pimento coulis could have been utilised to give the dish more energy.

I am eager to see just how well the wood-fired pizza oven works, so I request the Boscaiola pizza. Even though the variation of toppings on this pizza are scanty, the actual quantity of toppings served are not.

My tastebuds experience an enjoyable journey to the land of Italy with a fantastically sharp mozarella base, sundried tomatoes with the imported flavour of preserved olive oil, mushrooms and olives.

No meat needed for this bambino.

I have heard much about the lobster thermidor at Villa 69; being one of the few places that does offer this crustacean, I am eager to see how the dish has been executed. It is also apparently a favorite of Bollywood star Salman Khan.

Although it is on the smaller side, the lobster does look appetizing. The Parmesan cheese topping is grilled to perfection, giving way to an extremely creamy interior which admittedly left me hunting for existing lobster meat to ease the richness of the mustard sauce.

The accompanying chilli-garlic rice for me was redundant, however in hindsight could have been used to soak up the flavours. In order to visually engage in terms of presentation and act as a cleanser to the palate, the lobster could have perhaps been introduced on salad leaves with rice on the side.

For the price however, the meal is satisfactory.

Initially, I have low expectations of the final dish, a mushroom steak. On first bite, I swiftly learn my lesson: this is a dish which scorns my existing perceptions of vegetarian food.

With a smokey, robust flavour that reveals its char-grilled preparation, the mushroom truly displays all the elements of a fine steak.

The accompanying elements of mashed potato, broccoli and red and green peppers unite in a paprika cream mayonnaise which has addictive elements of spicy and sweet. The vegetables provide the dish with texture, saving it from threat of becoming mushy.

This dish has caught my attention and held it, as the star of the night.

Villa 69 has a satisfactory mix of world cuisines, catering to a wide range of tastes. The descriptions on the menu are simple and no-nonsense, with each dish emerging a surprise.

The service was unreasonably frantic for the gaggle of staff present, with a marked discrepancy between individual waiters on attentiveness and efficiency. This is a shame, as service given by top level management is impeccable.

I am more inclined towards vegetarian cuisine at this restaurant, the chefs having observed a solid understanding of basics like pizza and pasta.

The drinks are the strength of this establishment, offering innovative, exciting interpretations of various cocktails and a large range of international liquor.

Ambience, 8.5. Food, 7.5.

Villa 69 is located at Paradise Banquets, opposite PVR Cinemas, Juhu Circle, Juhu.

Photographs courtesy of Vinit Bhatt and mythirtyspot.com

THE DAILY, BANDRA

The name of this restaurant-cum-bar is in itself unusual with a hint of mystery, leaving something to be desired. I reach the premises and am intrigued to see the restaurant has taken on the persona of a newspaper, hence the name 'The Daily'.

Nowadays restaurants are recognising the need to provide more than just a place to eat; rather the focus is on providing the diner with a unique experience by transporting them to another world, if only for a short time.

The Daily proclaims the essence of happiness as its USP, featuring bi-monthly news bites of a positive nature hung framed on the wall for diners to gaze at and converse over. More eccentric tales are hung in the bathroom for added entertainment.

I am blown away by the extensive drinks list featuring an immense variety of international whiskey, gin, rum, cognac, tequila, liqueurs, a small section of international wine and most impressive: the detail and range of cocktails.

Divided into signature, classic, tiki and pre-prohibition era cocktails (the latter adding a historical element which is informative and interesting for the consumer), molecular cocktails are also available, which I am informed are dutifully made in front of the customer during non-peak days of Monday through Wednesday.

I feel The Daily would be a reformed alcoholic's unhappy place.

I go the whole hog and sample a molecular cocktail called Oriental Passion, which comprises kaffir lime leaves that are first muddled then combined with dry ice to produce a heady smoke. This is then tipped swiftly in a glass of vodka then covered for a minute to allow the smoke to rise and settle within the glass.

This expert technique utilises chemistry to identify what goes into a drink to make it appealing - first the diner's sense of smell should be aroused. Combining the leaves with dry ice emits an aroma which whets the appetite for the drink.

The result is an intoxicating, multi-layered beverage which is infused with subtle flavours of passion fruit and basil. Its refined, sophisticated tones serve as a dire warning that I'll never be able to imbibe a simple vodka and OJ again.

The smoothness of the drink makes it dangerously simple to order another, and another, and another.

My new mantra is ordering dishes I generally dislike or do not eat, to see if they're good enough to convert me. This also includes vegetarian fare, which I generally view as a side character rather than the hero.

Based on recommendation, I reluctantly order the lemon pepper fish, described as grilled basa. With its soft, delicate and somewhat bland flesh, basa is a fish I generally shy away from eating; under-cooked, it has a slimy texture, overcooked, it turns to cardboard.

The Indian basa I have so far experienced is usually drowned in overpowering masala to compensate for the lack of taste. With a sense of gloomy Pavlovian expectation, I assumed no different with the dish I bravely ordered. Au contraire!

Perched in front of me, prettily garnished with lime and parsley, were basa pieces grilled to absolute perfection with no hint of slime or cardboard. The lightness of the flesh was showcased utilising the bare minimum ingredients.

The complementary caponata sauce was similar to a low-spice Arrabiata sauce which contained chunky aubergine and cherry tomato. The texture and multidimensional aspect of the sauce gave the fish personality, which was rounded off with the tartness of the lime.

Next up: pork, lamb and beef sliders. The pork consist of minced pork patty with spicy barbeque sauce, gherkins, iceberg lettuce and cheddar cheese. The sauce certainly has a kick to it, so much so that the faint-hearted would be uncomfortable. The meat somehow does not have much flavour. I move on.

The lamb sliders are very much an Indian-ised version of the mutton kebab and mint chutney combo, with pickled cucumber, iceberg lettuce and cheddar cheese. The meat has a genuine lamb flavour and the tried and tested combination of lamb with mint has a comforting familiarity, but I was expecting a taste which was a little more innovative and continental.

Finally, I dig into the beef sliders. BINGO! If this were a whole burger, I'd guzzle it down in a second. The meat is pleasingly cow-like. In fact, I have full faith in fact that no buffalos were harmed in the making of this mini-burger.

Specifically made with tenderloin and prepared with home-made mustard mayonnaise, caramelised onions, gherkins and cheddar cheese, this is the authentic, continental mini-burger I have been waiting for.

I spy the pepperoni pizza on the menu and go in for the kill. The Diavola is simply prepared with pepperoni, olives and cheese, however the quality of the pepperoni is outstanding.

Care has been taken to ensure the salami is of an international standard and the toppings are generous. I can safely say this is one of the very, very few bona-fide pepperoni pizzas in Mumbai.

On the other side, the requisite vegetarian pizza. The Primavera features a satisfying Mediterranean spread of artichokes, sundried tomato, spinach, olives and cheese; lots to occupy the mind and distract from the fact that it is meatless.

Proud of my new avatar, I am urged to try the vegetarian moussaka as a main course. As an avid lover of Greek cuisine, I am keen to sample the Daily's interpretation of an ethnic dish which is not Indian.

Again, I was pleasantly surprised. Firmly nestled on a bed of cheese sauce and again topped with melted cheese, stacks of layered aubergine and tomato fit so cheerfully together that it seems like one should never neglect to utilise them in a moussaka.

Admittedly, I did grow tired of the no-meat element towards the end, wistfully envisaging a ground beef sauce, but it held my attention for a good five bites, which is a record for a vegetarian main course.

The glorious abundance of cheese saw me through each layer.

The Daily has put much thought into catering to discerning members of the Bandra cool crowd who want to sample more than just basic pub food and drinks. From a social standpoint, it works hard to spread the message of positivity: heavy on social media, the restaurant's Facebook page merrily spouts 'Daily Droplets of Joy' to its followers, spreading feel-good news from around the world.

The establishment goes a step further still as more than just a place to eat, with a weekly event called 'Thursdays Fam Jam' which encourages interest in the art of film, art and music.

The manager and several staff members of the restaurant are national award-winners in the fields of mixology and bartending. Clearly, the intention is to only work with the best.

Ambience 9, Food, 8.5. A pleasing experience overall.

The Daily is located behind Shopper's Stop, SV Road, Bandra West.

Photo credits: timescity.com, burrp.com, thetelegraph.co.uk, cookingwithmelody.com, 

PIZZA EXPRESS, ANDHERI WEST

I am instantly drawn to the large, floor to ceiling windows which bring in floods of light and illuminate the bustling, no-nonsense atmosphere of people talking, laughing and enjoying their food: ethnic Indians who appear to have transformed into jolly Italians upon entering the premises!

The waiters are engaged in happy banter with the customers, skilfully articulating how each pizza is made, while a projector playing old Bollywood films hums away in the background. This is a restaurant which has clearly done its hospitality homework.

Pizza Express feels like a genuine Italian pizza restaurant, with a distinct family vibe. Three enormous pizza ovens sit proudly on top of each other, roasting freshly made pizzas laden with ingredients which have been chopped fresh daily, each element clearly displayed in different glass bowls.

The 'open kitchen' has a tremendously theatrical element to it, inviting diners to sit and watch the chefs at work: throwing, kneading and tossing dough. To one side, a chef is painstakingly instructing a child surrounded by dough, cheese and mushrooms, on how to prepare pizza.

I am later told that these are dedicated 'kid's pizza-making classes' to encourage children to experiment with food.

Oh yes, I came here to eat! I drag my eyes away from the sights and start with the famous Dough Balls, a signature interpretation of the usual bread starter. Made from hand-stretched dough, I test the resilience of them by tearing them apart.

The warm crustiness of the bread is lightly peppered with flour as the inside is revealed: soft, chewy and piping hot. They are served with garlic and chilli oil, which I am happily surprised to see contains real chopped up garlic pieces and chilli flakes.

The limited but authentic wine list contains both Italian and Indian wine. I am particularly impressed by the available option of ordering an Italian red and white by the glass, giving the consumer affordable access to the genuine Italiano experience. Bellissima!

The Italian Sangiovese is well-rounded, mellow and perfectly stored (read: not refrigerated as is custom with red wine in India). The waiter asks if I would like my food to come out all at once, or one at a time. Tick, tick, tick.

Probably it would have been even more impressive if the bottle were shown to the customer and tastings allowed before pouring.

The Four Seasons pizza is a myriad of authenticity at every angle: mushroom, pepperoni, anchovies, capers and olives and mozzarella. The mark of a truly great restaurant is how well the simple dishes perform and the Four Seasons does not disappoint.

The pepperoni is decent, the anchovies sharp and biting, the mozzarella generous and stringy. One does not feel the need to compensate by adding extra ingredients.

A small note however - it would have been nice to have added maybe one or two pieces of extra pepperoni so that the pizza base was covered entirely.

Onward to Pizza Express' signature dish, the Calabrese. Inspired by Calabria, a region of Italy, the establishes promises customers that this is their 'hottest pizza' and it is, pleasingly; however it may not be any match for those sporting heavily desensitised Indian palates!

The toppings of Italian and spicy sausage, red chillis, jalapenos, red and yellow peppers with generous servings of pesto-laden rocket and explosive balls of thick mozzarella make the Four Seasons pizza seem dull in comparison.

This is the star of the show and all of a sudden, I realise that plain old pepperoni will no longer satisfy me, no matter how much of it is thrown on.  What, me renouncing my former old faithful pepperoni pizza for some hot new Italian version I've just met?

Such personal food revelations are rare and marvelous, with one leaving the restaurant a changed person.

Next up, I sample from the pasta section: the Lasagna Classica, described as a layered pasta with lamb bolognese sauce, pancetta, béchamel sauce and emilgrana cheese. By now, my expectations have been raised to the roof.

As the dish arrived with a flourish, I was dutifully advised that the roasting pan was hot and to be careful. (Tick). The  aroma of melted cheese wafted lazily around and snaked to my nostrils: instantly, my appetite was whet.

Each bite was left my mouth filled with the rush of warm cheese and bursting with fresh, whole tomato. Now this is lasagne.

One valid point to note however was the limited use of lamb and pancetta, the latter which I would have not known was added had I not read the menu. Yet in an odd way, if I were not expecting meat, I would have been more than satisfied with the lasagne I tasted.

My happy ending came in the form of the chocolate fudge cake with vanilla gelato. Freshly baked on the premises each morning, it came expertly presented in a velvety pool of chocolate sauce.

The creaminess of the gelato melted into the cake's fluffy embrace; as an after-effect, the strawberry tiptoed over my tastebuds with its bumpy texture.

I was pleased to see that across the world, Pizza Express maintains the same standard for all its dishes in terms of presentation and taste and it is evident that the Mumbai branch has worked very hard to adhere to this.

A passion for relaxed, quality food, wine and living is obviously highly encouraged in Pizza Express. The classic pizzas are highly affordable and competitive with those currently on the market at around 500 INR.

The preparation details are obsessive and this is clearly reflected in the freshness of the produce. The employees are wonderfully, tremendously, gloriously happy to work here and it shows in the level of sincere enthusiasm and professionalism.

As I was getting ready to leave, I took one last look at the menu and spied these very words resting quietly at the very end, in small, understated font: "We donate 20 rupees from every Apollo Romana pizza sold to the Akanksha Foundation, supporting children's education in Mumbai and Pune."

Finally, a business that fulfills the double bottom line of business and social responsibility!

Ambience: 10, Food: 9 - well done Pizza Express.

Located on the ground floor, Crystal Paradise, off Veera Desai Rd, Andheri West.

Photo credits: retaildesignblog.net,  vouchercodes.co.uk, vinhill.cn, foodspotting.com, snacktheplanet.blogspot.com, acommonmandines.com, theguardian.com

BETWEEN BREADS, BANDRA

Since the untimely demise of my favorite burger joint Burgs, a similar establishment has stood the test of time in popularity (and apparently, profit).

Between Breads is an unassuming little place tucked away on 16th rd, which has survived by good old-fashioned word-of-mouth marketing. With the interiors literally taking on the shape of a burger, this bustling establishment is a non-vegetarian's paradise with a hefty menu comprising beef, pork, turkey, chicken and tuna.

Let's start with the basics, shall we? One beef cheeseburger please. On first bite it's juicy and succulent, much better than I imagined. The combination of beef patty with grilled onions, tomato, lettuce, pickle and cheddar cheese comes together happily to produce a burger that is honest and pleasing to the palate.

There are small inaccuracies such as meat quality; the beef has the slightly harsh taste and hardness of buffalo (although they claimed it was in fact, cow) and cheese which appears to be processed (in my eyes, processed cheese should only be eaten by those under 10).

But overall, a decent burger and certainly cheaper than the Marriott burger.

The pork chili dog with beef chili, onions, jalapeno and pickle is certainly appetizing but for some reason does not pack a punch as described. The sausage is tasty but could be thicker and meatier for the price; perhaps genuine German or Italian sausages could be used to up the ante.

The beans in the chili are scarce and the potato chips served as an accompaniment are a stark reminder that yes, we are in fact not at an American diner.

I would love to see beef sausages just once in Mumbai. If anyone were to serve these, they'd automatically gain 5 points for uniqueness in my book.

The chicken wings had so much sauce added to them that they came off as a curry, on one hand appropriately catering to the Indian market, however unconvincing as an American specialty.

This classic could have been more bona fide had they been served grilled, with an interesting assortment of dipping sauces, or even as buffalo wings, as pictured below.

It must be noted that the bacon quality is superior - proper middle rashers available, with the star ingredient in a dish that should receive an award for its ingenuity - the bacon fries.

Best enjoyed dining in served hot, they lose their charm once they reach their destination, cold as a takeaway dish.

The star of the show was the turkey sandwich with cream cheese and bacon on rye bread with crispy lettuce, onion, tomato with freshly crushed pepper. Like an orchestrated symphony, each and every flavour worked in harmony with each other; the turkey was fresh and each layer of topping was clearly discernable.

The pepper added the right amount of zing and I was pleased to see the establishment was generous with its ingredients.

Between Breads has made a sincere effort to implement the look and taste of an American burger joint in an otherwise cramped space. Even though tables are scarce, the ambience is lively with easy listening music from the 90's playing all the old hits from your childhood.

Food scores 7/10 and ambience 7/10.

Between Breads is located at 2 Kalpitam Apartments opposite Hawaiian Shack, 16th Rd, Bandra West.

Photo credits: zomato.com, burrp.com, mumbaiboss.com

KOMBAVA CAFE, BANDRA

Blink and you'll walk right past it - this surprising little gem is tucked away in a narrow, dirty yet somehow trendy (dere-lict?) lane, which also houses other prominent eating houses.

An extension of The Art Loft, the owners celebrate the theme of nature with the use of plants and bamboo which act as dividers between slightly cramped and uncomfortable, but pretty booths.

The USP of Kombava is that nearly all of their dishes are light, clean and healthy but not all irritatingly vegetarian, or even worse, patronisingly vegan. Non-vegetarian options include chicken, prawn, squid and even mutton.

The menu is fresh, varied and interactive, with each item marked by a coloured dot of red, blue, green or yellow. Add up everything you order, see which colour features the most and boom - read all about your personality. This serves as an interesting twist and a definite conversation starter (especially for those awkward first dates).

I was delighted to see Vietnamese rice paper rolls for the first time in Mumbai. I ordered the prawn variety with a flourish and was astounded by their authenticity when they arrived, complete with three varieties of dipping sauce - sweet chilli, soy and hot chilli. My only complaint is that for the price, the portion served could have been larger.

The pumpkin and nutmeg soup was a disappointment - bland and tasting somewhat artificial. Really well-made vegetable soup should taste like a liquid version of the said item, be it tomato, pumpkin or leek. It was necessary to add pepper to every couple or so spoonfuls to be able to tolerate Kombava's interpretation. Freshly cracked pepper was not available (minus one point).

To my utter, utter surprise  I immensely enjoyed the vegetarian dishes - that too, the salads (the mark of an exceptional restaurant). Finding an enjoyable, fulfilling salad in Mumbai is no mean feat and this journey has come to an end, thanks to the farfalle and pesto sunflower seeds, rocket and cherry tomato with pesto salad.

Sizeable without being heavy, the mix of the pesto covered pasta resonated perfectly with the rocket, with the sunflower seeds adding a crunchy texture and the cherry tomato providing small explosions of sweetness.

The chicken laksa with rice noodles, sour fish and coconut broth should be commended for its size, however it lacked oomph, was somewhat bland and lacked authenticity.

The drinks list sings like an ode to healthy living with endless combinations of fresh juices, smoothies and mocktails. It almost seems a sin to order anything as regular as a coffee or an aerated drink.

Impressive enough are the extensive range of teas, each to suit a particular purpose: refresh, uplift, calm, digestive. Finish off with the addictive after dinner tea of organic fennel, chicory and cardamom tea - you'll fall asleep before you even pay the bill.

The service is relaxed but not lax; it simply goes with the calm, peaceful ambience of the place. The food in general and ambience was genuine and well-intentioned. I will give food 8/10 and ambience 8.5/10.

Kombava is situated on Waroda Road, off Hill Road, Bandra West, Mumbai.

Picture credits: Sian Pascale for the Cargo Collective, zomato.com, mumbai.burrp.com, theveganapprentice.blogspot.com, brewsters.net.au, newclicksnapshot.blogspot.com